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I'll get some pics of thye underbelly and post them but I basically bought 4' x 8' sheets of 4mm corregated plastic (like sign board, brand name Coroplast) and used existing or installed angle ironn crossmembers so each span was 48" or less. The width of each piece is 67 inches. I used stainless steel self-tapping screws and 3/4" aluminum flat bar on top. I bought the aluminum flat bar from www.metalsdepot.com. Much cheaper that home depot, even with shipping. You can get much closer to the length you need. I can now drop just the section I need for maintenance, upgrades or repairs.

The hitch was custom made and welded to the frame. I opted for lighter capacity with the ability to add another crossmember if want to tow heavier. I really want it for a bike rack, rear basket or a Juicebox generator. It is good for a tonge weight of at least 500 pounds. I really don't plan to double-tow. If I had the welding shop woulod have added a second crossmember to the frame. It goes thru the bumper because I did not want to lose ground clearance. I made a sewer holder that is in front of my front axle anyway so my hose is closer to the hook-up. The hitch bar goes under the back and attaches to a 2" square tube welded to the frame. The attachment is also gusstted. The 3/8" angle across the back adds support since the bumper is not very stout. The brackets where the bumper extensions attach to the frame were also re-welded since they looked weak.

As for Lippert, they probably wouldn't approve of any of this. Since my plans are lightweight, I'm not concerned.